Friday 28 April was spent travelling. We took an early bus from Amalfi to Salerno in slight rain, the greyness of the ocean merging into the grey sky as we headed along the precarious edge of dry land. After a short wait, where we discovered that the public toilet in the Salerno rail station was closed, presumably because the attendant had yet to start work, we found a small bar for coffee and breakfast.
The Avis office was extremely helpful, and we managed to hire the vehicle we had reserved, and head off by around ten am. The GPS guided us out of the centre of town, and onto the autostrada. The Italians are very good at transport infrastructure: the trains and roads have been excellent.
After taking the ferry across the Strait of Messina, we headed south. Notwithstanding a short diversion off the autostrada, the result of inexplicable directions from our GPS (perhaps it is programmed to avoid toll points?), we reached Taormina in quick time. We had been travelling about eight hours, but it went quickly.
Saturday was spent exploring Taormina, a town located high above the coast line, accessed by a funicular. The economy is clearly driven by tourism. The main attraction is the Greek /Roman amphitheatre which dates from 200 BC. There were also a couple of churches with interesting art, hundreds of high end shops and hotels, and thousands of tourists like us.
After an early evening drink with our friends on the terrace of the Hotel Metropole overlooking the azure Mediterranean sea, and a quick dinner in a nearby trattoria, we managed to squeeze into a sold out performance of highlights from Italian operas by the local Taormina Opera society. The performers were terrific, at least to my untrained ear, and made it a very enjoyable evening.
Today, the plan is to drive on to Siracusa, via Catania where there is a self-guided walk related to the composer Bellini who was born there, and which our friends (who are opera aficionados) are keen to see. It is a beautiful day, so the drive should be very pleasant. While the autostrada is efficient, there is a side of me that quite misses the curves of previous days; must be the adrenaline rush of careening almost out of control with the void on one side and the cliff walls on the other. Italy certainly gives one a new perspective on life!
Sunday, April 30, 2017
Thursday, April 27, 2017
The vicissitudes of travel Thursday 27 April
I woke during the night with severe stomach pains, nausea and head ache. I think i had a mild dose of food poisoning, probably from lunch yesterday.
As a result, I have spent the morning in bed resting, and doing some desultory reading of a Bill Bryson book about Britain which I found in the apartment. Eating very little.
The others have gone to Ravello as I write this, and will return shortly. Hopefully I will feel well enough tomorrow to drive to Sicily!
As a result, I have spent the morning in bed resting, and doing some desultory reading of a Bill Bryson book about Britain which I found in the apartment. Eating very little.
The others have gone to Ravello as I write this, and will return shortly. Hopefully I will feel well enough tomorrow to drive to Sicily!
Il sentieri degli dei 26 April 2017
Yesterday we walked the 'path of the gods', a strikingly beautiful four hour stroll along the side of the mountains which verge on the Amalfi coast.
We took a bus up the 700 metre climb to Bomerone, and then walked north to Noccello, and down to the outskirts of Positano.
While the walking was not difficult, it took the best part of four hours, and left me at least feeling stiff and sore, especially in my calves, the result of the climb down I suspect.
I wont go on with the superlatives. Anyone interested can google the walk. I certainly felt it was a fantastic experience, stupendous views, and very enjoyable to boot.
A small and late lunch in Positano, anther nerve wracking bus ride back to Amalfi, a shower, rest and then dinner in an extremely good local restaurant, da Gemma, which specialises in the local cuisine. I had a provolone mousse on a bed of tomato and mushrooms for starters, and a rich and slow cooked veal pasta dish for mains. No dessert, though they looked very tempting. Boronia had roasted octopus for starters and lamb cutlets for mains. The wine was a local Ravello white, named the 'nectar of the gods'. I couldn't go past it given the days activities.
A short walk around the back streets of Amalfi, and then home along the sea shore, capped a tremendous day.
We took a bus up the 700 metre climb to Bomerone, and then walked north to Noccello, and down to the outskirts of Positano.
While the walking was not difficult, it took the best part of four hours, and left me at least feeling stiff and sore, especially in my calves, the result of the climb down I suspect.
I wont go on with the superlatives. Anyone interested can google the walk. I certainly felt it was a fantastic experience, stupendous views, and very enjoyable to boot.
A small and late lunch in Positano, anther nerve wracking bus ride back to Amalfi, a shower, rest and then dinner in an extremely good local restaurant, da Gemma, which specialises in the local cuisine. I had a provolone mousse on a bed of tomato and mushrooms for starters, and a rich and slow cooked veal pasta dish for mains. No dessert, though they looked very tempting. Boronia had roasted octopus for starters and lamb cutlets for mains. The wine was a local Ravello white, named the 'nectar of the gods'. I couldn't go past it given the days activities.
A short walk around the back streets of Amalfi, and then home along the sea shore, capped a tremendous day.
Tuesday, April 25, 2017
Above Amalfi: 25 April 2017
Today we decided to walk up the valley above Amalfi. After breakfast, we departed around 9.30 am, up through the town, and through a narrow valley with a strong flowing stream flowing down its centre. The path was well trodden, over centuries, and every few hundred metres there were ruined farm houses from the 13th century or beyond. At one spot, a local landowner had renovated a ruin and sold only local produce from his farm. We stopped there for a drink (lemon granita) and boronia had a piece of crumbly but delicious almond and lemon cake with local honey on the side. It was delicious!
Climbing ever upward, through thousands of lemon trees and then into wilder territory, we reached the cross road which signalled our return via a loop through the town of Pontone (where we had a pleasant lunch), then climbed the hill which leads to the Torre dello Zino, although a mistake on my part meant that we didnt go all the way down the hill to the Torre. From there we headed down to the town of Atrani, and back to Amalfi via the tunnel under the Torre dello Zino. We arrived home around four pm, so at least four hours walking on medium grade hills.
After a rest, and a shower, we headed out to dinner to a local restaurant recommended by the hotel. It was terrific, the food excellent, probably the best meal we have had so far.
Back home to settle down, do some chores and write this blog. A terrific day, great scenery, wonderful food, enjoyable company and conversation. One cant ask for more.
I was particularly struck by the accumulated work over centuries of the peasant farmers who eked a life and living from quite difficult landscapes. Farmhouses, terraced farms, stone walls and paths, all evidence of lifetimes of hard work by unknown men and women who also built the culture and society that is Italy (and indirectly Australia) today. Worth pondering what we will leave our descendants!
Climbing ever upward, through thousands of lemon trees and then into wilder territory, we reached the cross road which signalled our return via a loop through the town of Pontone (where we had a pleasant lunch), then climbed the hill which leads to the Torre dello Zino, although a mistake on my part meant that we didnt go all the way down the hill to the Torre. From there we headed down to the town of Atrani, and back to Amalfi via the tunnel under the Torre dello Zino. We arrived home around four pm, so at least four hours walking on medium grade hills.
After a rest, and a shower, we headed out to dinner to a local restaurant recommended by the hotel. It was terrific, the food excellent, probably the best meal we have had so far.
Back home to settle down, do some chores and write this blog. A terrific day, great scenery, wonderful food, enjoyable company and conversation. One cant ask for more.
I was particularly struck by the accumulated work over centuries of the peasant farmers who eked a life and living from quite difficult landscapes. Farmhouses, terraced farms, stone walls and paths, all evidence of lifetimes of hard work by unknown men and women who also built the culture and society that is Italy (and indirectly Australia) today. Worth pondering what we will leave our descendants!
naples to Amalfi 24 April 2017
We had train tickets booked from Naples to Salerno, and a plan to use public transport to get us to Amalfi. The Naples metro system is quite new, and regarded a extremely beautiful, so Boronia was keen to see it/use it. The day started with a two block walk to the local Metro station, our luggage on our backs and in tow, a descent below via a lift, ten minutes of confusion about which line to take as either the signage was inadequate, our language skills not up to the task, or our combined fur degrees and three postgraduate degrees not adequate to solve the problem immediately. Finally, we managed to ask for assistance and we found the correct platform. This took us to Termini, Naples main railway station, where we had no problem in finding the correct platform, and boarded our train with ten minutes to spare.
The trip to Salerno was fast and pleasant. Thirty five minutes later, around ten am, we had arrived.
Salerno seems to be a ver pleasant smaller city/town, so after a coffee, we found the bus stop and bought tickets to Amalfi in a nearby shop. After an hour wait in the sun, chatting to some Argentinian women, our bus arrived. It was immediately full, and we were lucky, by virtue of some adept footwork by Boronia, to secure four seats, and get our luggage on board. It was now only thirty kms to Amalfi, so we assumed we would arrive in around half an hour. How wrong we were.
It was a national holiday, so the coast road to Amalfi was choked with traffic. The bus was around thirty metres long, and the road had ore curves than straight sections. Each curve required the bus to swing out into the opposite lane, and even on a good day, would have required extremely skilful driving.
After three hours of nerve wracking travel, with the traffic inching along at a snails pace, and where the driver would regularly lean out the window and encourage the oncoming traffic to either back up or squeeze past with mere centimetres of space to spare, we arrived in Amalfi. Where we had started with a full bus load, we ended up with only six on the bus at the end as all the locals made decisions to exit and walk once they got within around 500 metres of their destination, as they could walk the last half km faster than we could drive.
Anyway, it was quite fun in a bizarre sort of way. The hotel run apartment we had booked is clean and central, the beds very firm, and thus comfortable, so by four pm we were set to head out and explore the town. After an hour or so having a drink and a late snack for lunch, buying some supplies for dinner and breakfast, we settled in for a relaxed evening. Boronia made some salads and the evening sped by.
Despite spending most of the day travelling, the consensus amongst the four of us was that it had been an interesting and entertaining day. Certainly the scenery along the road to Amalfi is spectacular.
The trip to Salerno was fast and pleasant. Thirty five minutes later, around ten am, we had arrived.
Salerno seems to be a ver pleasant smaller city/town, so after a coffee, we found the bus stop and bought tickets to Amalfi in a nearby shop. After an hour wait in the sun, chatting to some Argentinian women, our bus arrived. It was immediately full, and we were lucky, by virtue of some adept footwork by Boronia, to secure four seats, and get our luggage on board. It was now only thirty kms to Amalfi, so we assumed we would arrive in around half an hour. How wrong we were.
It was a national holiday, so the coast road to Amalfi was choked with traffic. The bus was around thirty metres long, and the road had ore curves than straight sections. Each curve required the bus to swing out into the opposite lane, and even on a good day, would have required extremely skilful driving.
After three hours of nerve wracking travel, with the traffic inching along at a snails pace, and where the driver would regularly lean out the window and encourage the oncoming traffic to either back up or squeeze past with mere centimetres of space to spare, we arrived in Amalfi. Where we had started with a full bus load, we ended up with only six on the bus at the end as all the locals made decisions to exit and walk once they got within around 500 metres of their destination, as they could walk the last half km faster than we could drive.
Anyway, it was quite fun in a bizarre sort of way. The hotel run apartment we had booked is clean and central, the beds very firm, and thus comfortable, so by four pm we were set to head out and explore the town. After an hour or so having a drink and a late snack for lunch, buying some supplies for dinner and breakfast, we settled in for a relaxed evening. Boronia made some salads and the evening sped by.
Despite spending most of the day travelling, the consensus amongst the four of us was that it had been an interesting and entertaining day. Certainly the scenery along the road to Amalfi is spectacular.
Monday, April 24, 2017
pompei Sunday 23 April 2017
We headed to Pompei as part of a tour arranged by the hotel, as it seemed the easiest way to get there and back and provided a guided tour.
As it transpired, the logistics were slow and verging on the chaotic, though as we had nothing else to do, there seemed no point in being agitated...After milling around at the entrance, as various groups of the tour were merged and organised by language group, we were underway. Our guide was a neapolitan woman with a no holds bar attitude. She was quite informative about the impact of the eruption on the town, the salience of the town as a major trading centre, and daily life in the town from the perspective of thrice, the nouveau riche, the poor and slaves.
The town was full of tourists, with scores of guided tour groups and hundreds if not thousands of smaller family groups wending their way around the town. Our guide was forthright in telling wayward tour groups that they needed to make way for other groups,and when a member of the group on the end of her tongue lashing argued back, she gave him what for in double measure. When he asked for her tour guide number, she explained to our group that her number had been changed three times since she started, but she was wearing her original badge, so her number did not relate to her, and giving it to him meant nothing. An interesting insight (yet again) into Italian bureaucracy.
After two hours walking around the town, through one of the 40 brothels along with a helpful selection of frescoes which assisted clients to choose their preferred mode of service, and past the various bakeries and shops along the streets, the public baths, the spas, and the very extensive public square (the forum), we headed home. Overall it was a very enjoyable day.
After a siesta, we went for a walk along the bay side promenade, and then enjoyed a pleasant meal in a local restaurant.
As it transpired, the logistics were slow and verging on the chaotic, though as we had nothing else to do, there seemed no point in being agitated...After milling around at the entrance, as various groups of the tour were merged and organised by language group, we were underway. Our guide was a neapolitan woman with a no holds bar attitude. She was quite informative about the impact of the eruption on the town, the salience of the town as a major trading centre, and daily life in the town from the perspective of thrice, the nouveau riche, the poor and slaves.
The town was full of tourists, with scores of guided tour groups and hundreds if not thousands of smaller family groups wending their way around the town. Our guide was forthright in telling wayward tour groups that they needed to make way for other groups,and when a member of the group on the end of her tongue lashing argued back, she gave him what for in double measure. When he asked for her tour guide number, she explained to our group that her number had been changed three times since she started, but she was wearing her original badge, so her number did not relate to her, and giving it to him meant nothing. An interesting insight (yet again) into Italian bureaucracy.
After two hours walking around the town, through one of the 40 brothels along with a helpful selection of frescoes which assisted clients to choose their preferred mode of service, and past the various bakeries and shops along the streets, the public baths, the spas, and the very extensive public square (the forum), we headed home. Overall it was a very enjoyable day.
After a siesta, we went for a walk along the bay side promenade, and then enjoyed a pleasant meal in a local restaurant.
Sunday, April 23, 2017
Rome to Napoli Saturday 22 April 2017
We were up early to pack and head to Termini, Rome's rail station. After a coffee, we boarded a fast train to Napoli. Seventy minutes later, we arrived, grabbed a cab to the hotel , and checked in.
First stop was a walk up the hill to the archeological museum, where we hired a guide to take us around and put the exhibits into context. hundreds of bronze and marble statues, most from Herculaneum, destroyed by the Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD. Some amazing mosaics, in extraordinary detail, which were originally used on the floors of the various villas and public buildings. A room of erotic statues and mosaics from the brothels of Herculaneum and Pompei, and some lovely roman jewellery.
After a vegetarian lunch in a nearby restaurant, our friends headed back to the museum, while we headed to the funicular to take us up the mountain top overlooking the old city and the port. After a slight divergence from our planned route (code for getting lost), we fell in with a young Parisian photographer who lives here with his Spanish girlfriend and spends his time photographing the people and barrios of Napoli.
Upon reaching the summit, a man exiting the funicular station started a conversation with boronia, told her that she looked very Italian (he said that was a compliment) and explained that he and his four brothers ran a cameo factory which had been in the family for three generations. He invited us into his shop where his brother was hand carving various cameo broaches, lovely work, but not really aligned with modern sensibilities. I suspect that he deliberately targeted Boronia in order to try to gain a customer.
Next we visited the museum (art gallery) on the summit, a little tired and under-managed, in what appeared to be an old monastery next to the castle which had been used as a former marine headquarters for the Napolitean state in the 18th century. I was very tired, so found it difficult to concentrate. There were exhibits around Italian theatre in the 19th century, Italian boat building and naval history, and more, but it had all become a blur!
We walked back down , a fifteen minute stroll through narrow streets of the Spanish quarter, very gritty (code for dark, dingy and dirty), but the most frustrating issue for me is that the the streets have been entirely colonised by motor vehicles with no concessions to pedestrian traffic. Boronia said she liked the feel of the neighborhood.
Once we entered the old city, the throngs increased, the streets narrow, and traffic blocked off in some parts. Many shops selling a wide range of pastries, clearly showing a mediterranean influence, akin to turkish or african sweets. They looked extremely tempting (in fact i did succumb to ordering one with a coffee earlier in the day) and while it was tasty, it wasn't as delicious as my memories of my childhood and my mother's cooking. I have particularly fond memories of cupcakes presented on special occasions.
After a rest in the hotel we went out to an unprepossessing restaurant recommended by the Guardian newspaper, Stanza al Gusto. The food was interesting and the service was excellent. Conversation with our friends ranged across theology, family, our plans for tomorrow, and much more I have already forgotten. An enjoyable day.
Saturday, April 22, 2017
Rome Friday 21 April
While our friends headed to the Vatican City and St Peters, we decided to walk across the Tiber to Trastevere, spent some time looking at the art in Santa Maria de Trastevere, and then headed down to Santa Cecilia where there are underground excavations of old roman foundations and mosaics. As we emerged some texan tourists mentioned a fresco in the monastery next door, so we tagged along s they rang the door bell, and were granted admittance. After paying a small fee, we were taken by an ancient nun, the size of a hobbit, with large knowing eyes, but a blank face, into a lift, where she deliberately pushed the button and we ascended to the second story and were guided into the room of the fresco. It was only two thirds complete,very old,at least five hundred years, and i gained the impression that the small guardian of the fresco had been oversighting its continued preservation for at least half of that time...after a respectable ten minutes viewing, we were guided below again, the procedure of the the deliberate pushing of the correct button being undertaken in reverse....
We wended across the river, into the jewish quarter, with a dozen or so hebrew /italian restaurants the most visible presence of its existence...heading east we found our next objective, a church in the piazza minerva, next to the pantheon. This was less impressive, so after some lunch, we headed home for a rest.
Later in the afternoon, we headed across to the cathedral of san giovanni di laterano, the pope's personal cathedral. For my taste, this church was completely over the top, a literal product of the gilded age. The most interesting sight was of an elderly monsignor sitting alone in a confessional, reading his kindle while waiting for penitents. He didn't seem to have many takers, indeed he didn't have any at all. Boronia suggested that I must have something to confess, which i clearly do, particularly my backsliding around the rules for placing the washing up brush on the sink. In any case, as contrition and a commitment to not sin again is essential to a true confession, I decided to give it all a miss.
After a short visit to the la scala sancta,which can only be ascended on your knees. I gave that a miss. As we emerged, past the two military guards with their sub machine guns, and below the huge huge advert for a Toyota yaris, I felt strangely moved to take a greater interest in agnosticism.
These journey there and back was interesting, mixing with the roman workers heading home for the evening. We headed back to our own neighbourhood, a drink in a bar, which merged into a light meal,.
We wended across the river, into the jewish quarter, with a dozen or so hebrew /italian restaurants the most visible presence of its existence...heading east we found our next objective, a church in the piazza minerva, next to the pantheon. This was less impressive, so after some lunch, we headed home for a rest.
Later in the afternoon, we headed across to the cathedral of san giovanni di laterano, the pope's personal cathedral. For my taste, this church was completely over the top, a literal product of the gilded age. The most interesting sight was of an elderly monsignor sitting alone in a confessional, reading his kindle while waiting for penitents. He didn't seem to have many takers, indeed he didn't have any at all. Boronia suggested that I must have something to confess, which i clearly do, particularly my backsliding around the rules for placing the washing up brush on the sink. In any case, as contrition and a commitment to not sin again is essential to a true confession, I decided to give it all a miss.
After a short visit to the la scala sancta,which can only be ascended on your knees. I gave that a miss. As we emerged, past the two military guards with their sub machine guns, and below the huge huge advert for a Toyota yaris, I felt strangely moved to take a greater interest in agnosticism.
These journey there and back was interesting, mixing with the roman workers heading home for the evening. We headed back to our own neighbourhood, a drink in a bar, which merged into a light meal,.
Friday, April 21, 2017
Rome Thursday 20 April 2017
After an early pre-breakfast walk, we spent an enjoyable day getting oriented by taking a tour bus around tome. We spent most of the day in the region of the Galleria Borghese, although we didn't manage to gain entry.
Instead we went to the National Gallery of Modern Art nearby, where the main exhibition was titled 'time out of joint', a quote from Hamlet which pleased me no end. The curators had contrasted modern and older artworks, which worked quite well, juxtaposing the differences time inflicts while preserving the timeless essentials.
We all had different favorite art works. One of the most memorable for me was a spiral made of nails inserted into the wall at different angles, a metaphor for the individual vicissitudes of life creating a much more structured pattern which is greater and more beautiful than the sum of its everyday parts.
Boronia liked an iron sculpture of a man with a goat on his back, stylised and streamlined. I liked it too, though I am not sure what it was attempting to say to us.
One smaller exhibition in the gallery was on the theme of the people who visited the gallery, with lots of photos of people viewing art, and spending time in galleries. Boronia dared me to do something interesting, so I whipped off my shirt and lay on the floor bare chested. I was about to take off my trousers, but Boronia threatened to scream. Anyway, there is photographic evidence available to any interested parties for a price.
After a pleasant lunch in the Gallery, we headed home. I went off to find an adapter. Boronia and our friends went to see the church of Santa Maria di Maggiore, which they reported had wonderful mosaics, a particular interest of Boronia.
Dinner was according to Ligurian cuisine in a small nearby trattoria which had been recommended by our landlord. I ordered lightly grilled peppers basted with anchovies, a salad, and pasta with tomato and mushroom sauce. No dessert, but too much bread and wine!
All agreed a very pleasant day.
Instead we went to the National Gallery of Modern Art nearby, where the main exhibition was titled 'time out of joint', a quote from Hamlet which pleased me no end. The curators had contrasted modern and older artworks, which worked quite well, juxtaposing the differences time inflicts while preserving the timeless essentials.
We all had different favorite art works. One of the most memorable for me was a spiral made of nails inserted into the wall at different angles, a metaphor for the individual vicissitudes of life creating a much more structured pattern which is greater and more beautiful than the sum of its everyday parts.
Boronia liked an iron sculpture of a man with a goat on his back, stylised and streamlined. I liked it too, though I am not sure what it was attempting to say to us.
One smaller exhibition in the gallery was on the theme of the people who visited the gallery, with lots of photos of people viewing art, and spending time in galleries. Boronia dared me to do something interesting, so I whipped off my shirt and lay on the floor bare chested. I was about to take off my trousers, but Boronia threatened to scream. Anyway, there is photographic evidence available to any interested parties for a price.
After a pleasant lunch in the Gallery, we headed home. I went off to find an adapter. Boronia and our friends went to see the church of Santa Maria di Maggiore, which they reported had wonderful mosaics, a particular interest of Boronia.
Dinner was according to Ligurian cuisine in a small nearby trattoria which had been recommended by our landlord. I ordered lightly grilled peppers basted with anchovies, a salad, and pasta with tomato and mushroom sauce. No dessert, but too much bread and wine!
All agreed a very pleasant day.
Wednesday, April 19, 2017
Rome: Wednesday 19 April 2017
We flew into Frankfurt just before 6.00 am, chilly at zero degrees, but lovely to exit the plane after 12 hours from Singapore. Flight was uneventful, we both managed five or so hours sleep plus a movie.
After along walk, I estimate more than a kilometre to the far end of the terminal, we boarded our flight to Rome. A short hour-long hop across the alps, saw us in Rome by around 9.30 am. Our friends arrived from London around ten thirty am, and we travelled into our apartment located near the Piazza Navona.
The apartment is a fascinating melange of the old and the new....the hallway is literarily a cobbled path many centuries old which has been incorporated into the design of the apartment. Exposed beams of oak. Exposed brickwork which is clearly many centuries old. There is a new annex with steel building framework reinforcing the far wall,and creating a loft above the living room, the art is modern classical, with lots of baroque mirrors, tiled floors in faux mosaics, plus lots of steel sculptures which while quite heavy looking are quite interesting; not my taste, but I admire the innovation and willingness to be different.
After we had settled in a little, we headed to a nearby restaurant for lunch, very pleasant roman meal. An Australian living in Rome came up to us to say how pleased he was to hear our accents.Then a walk around the neighbourhood taking in three impressive churches (the size of most Australian cathedrals, full of fifteenth century art, saints relics, and a sprinkling of tourists.
The highlight was undoubtedly the Pantheon, full of tourists , but extremely impressive. Rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in the first century AD, he must have run out of money as he failed to finish the cupola leaving a hole in the roof. Budget constraints and reining in the deficit are clearly longstanding issues.
A quick peek inside a modern art gallery, plus the odd jewellery shop, and we headed home, all of us feeling quite tired.
As I write, we are about to head out for an early dinner, so that we might get an early night. While I have up till now deliberately not been focussing on the trip, having finally arrived, it feels relaxing and a nice change from the busyness of the ANU!
I have been missing my regular coffees at the ANU though!
Monday, April 17, 2017
Italy calling
Preparations for our 2017 trip to Italy are almost done. Boronia has done virtually all the work, planning, booking travel and accommodation, and all the loose ends to which I am oblivious. This post is one opportunity to acknowledge her hard work, and say thank you, and help me to refocus on the trip ahead. I will try to keep the blog updates so that those few souls who are interested to know what we are up to can log in. While Boronia has a Facebook account, I have an ideological objection, and so am left with google blogger!
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