We departed Taormina on Sunday morning, heading to Siracusa. First stop was Catania where our friends were keen to visit the Bellini museum, and visit some of the places where he played the organ. We went our own way. Serendipitously, we had stopped outside the entrance to a Roman Theatre in the old part of the city. Boronia and I went in and were amazed at the size and complexity of the site. It has been abandoned in the sixth century, and built over with residences, and virtually forgotten, although 15th century birds eye paintings of the city clearly showed the semi circular plan of the streetscape. It has only been excavated over the last twenty years.
Afterwards, we went for a walk around the old city, came upon the contemporary art gallery which was very interesting, comprising a good selection of high quality Sicilian art, much more expressive and innovative (in my humble opinion) than most Australian contemporary art. The piazzas, fish markets, and cathedral square were all interesting, not too overrun with tourists.
The drive to Siracusa was unremarkable, the GPS working very well. We are staying in a 14th century palazzo near Cassabile, some 12 km out of the city. The owner, Mario, was here to meet us, showed us around the three story building, with thirty foot ceilings, tiled floors, much of it marble, and modern bathroom facilities. The feel was very comfortable, set within a working farm, high walled buildings, a small chapel, and a nearby 'resort' owned by Mario's niece, who was also very friendly.
Monday was set aside for exploring Siracusa. We spent the morning exploring the old city on the island of Ortigia, joining throngs of tourists doing he same. Highlights included exploring a church with three levels of underground tunnels, the deepest being ancient jewish baths for women, the markets, and lunch in a salumiere - a form of delicatessan - where we had to queue for half an hour as waiters and customers weaved in and out ordering, buying, waiting, and eating....he food was excellent which presumably was why it was so popular.
After lunch we walked about 2kms to the Greek amphitheatre, and a limestone formation of caves. In contrast to the old city, the streetscape was unremarkable, and the destination not as impressive as the more accessible and less well known roman theatre in Catania. But one can perhaps be too blase about these things!
Dinner was in the private restaurant run by Mario's niece in the adjacent 'resort'. The meal was very good, the wine enjoyable, the conversation excellent. So the day ended in a state of deep satiation!
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